The braid looks magnificent. Intricate braided, brown baked, shiny surface. Bigger than a Sunday roast. If you lift it, it's harder than expected.
It's not just a braid, but a Züpfe. This is not just a matter of dialect. Although the two household appliances look similar and are made according to a similar recipe, but the Bernese version is closer, more delicious, in short: Währschafter than what can be purchased nationwide, as a braid from counters and shelves. According to the list of Switzerland's culinary heritage, Berner Züpfe is the original braid so popular throughout Switzerland, the centerpiece of a Sunday breakfast.
Bakes at least 40 hatches every weekend: Farmer Andrea Eyermann. Photo: Maurice K. Grünig
"Züpenteig has to pull threads if you cut a piece apart. And he has to have a huff," says Andrea Eymann. Saturday.
The dough takes time
How it works, she demonstrates in her farm bakery, which she runs with her life partner Dieter Geissbühler. “The raw dough needs time. That's the most important thing, ”Eymann says. "That way he gets more flavor." In front of the farmer's wife lies a large, almost spherical dough lump in a bowl. She did as usual the night before. Similarly, she is preparing another batch to demonstrate how to do it.
It mixes flour, milk, butter and yeast. Then she moans. Push, pull and squeeze the dough with her strong arms and hands. In the beginning, the surface of the dough is rough. Gradually it becomes smooth and supple. "You have to be able to stretch a piece of dough so much that you can read the newspaper," she says as she tests the test. The dough is not ready yet – it breaks. She continues to work on it. Sweat trickling down her forehead, her head turning red. After approx. For 15 minutes, the dough has the desired consistency. She puts it in a bowl and covers it with a plastic wrap. He may not get a crust, otherwise he may not continue.
Bake Cakes – This is how it works
Enlarge the instructions
The dough she just kneaded weighs five kg. Usually she produces ten kg at a time. Then she leaves the job of kneading the kneading machine, which is in a corner of the bakery.
In the past, Andrea Eymann always added eggs to the dough. "But people told me the plugs were too dry. Then I left the eggs away, ”Eymann said. Eggs or no eggs in the dough: a dispute to which there is no definitive answer. Some take it with them, others without.
Likewise, opinions are divided on how many threads a braid should be twisted. Thaw? Three? Six? Andrea Eymann usually chews with six strands. This is because it looks more artistic and results in pieces of equal size. For the photo, she also shows a version with only two strings.
First, however, she knocks the dough from the previous evening on the table. "Zämeschlaa" she calls it. The air should go out, pigtails should not have holes like an Emmentaler cheese. It has to be compact. Then she separates with the spatula piecewise and weighs it. The pieces, in turn, divide them into two or six chunks of equal size and roll them into small, thick sausages. And minutes later, when all the dough has turned into rolls, she picks it up again to roll it up to a meter long. If she had gone straight to the point and rolled out the pieces all at once, they would be frayed and possibly torn. A Züpenteig requires intuition and patience.
Then she drops. Noiseless and fast. After about a minute, the sausages became a braid. She repeats the process in slow motion to show how it works. And it falls for a moment almost beyond rhythm. "It's best not to think about it, but just move on," she says. Once you understand it, it's not hard, as the self-experiment shows.
What is a good braid?
Eymann places the finished braids on a preheated oven for about ten minutes. The yeast has to work again, the dough pieces rise slightly. They do. Then she brushes them with eggs and pushes them into the oven. Soon it smells wonderful – after fresh braid. When Andrea Eymann pulls the hot metal plates out of the oven after 30 minutes with the wooden screen and golden brown bread comes out, you want to cut a slice off.
Every Saturday, Eymann is in the bakery at 2.30. To bake up to 7.30 clock 40 breeding. Some go to Saturday's vegetable stall with a friend in Sumiswald, others put them in a small wooden head in front of the house on the street: in Brothüsi. There, people can help themselves against leaving of course the purchase amount – a kilogram costs nine francs.
"What a great braid is, only shows up the next morning," said Andreas Dossenbach of Richemont in Lucerne, the baking industry's education and training center. If it shows if the braid baked on Saturday is still fresh on the table Sunday breakfast. What does this depend on? "For various reasons," says the expert. From the ingredients, from the preparation method. For a long time it makes the dough more airy and the pastry fresh longer. But a "housewife-style" butter stew is nevertheless closer than one in which emulsifiers provide airiness – and which also dries it out. According to Dossenbach, an important role for the density of a braid plays the choice of flour. In one of Emmentaler Züpfe there is a part of spelled flour as well as in "Emmentaler Züpfenmehl", which uses Andrea Eymann. The flour from the Kleeb factory in Rüegsbach BE contains "about 30 percent" spelled flour, while the rest is wheat flour. Mills manager Katja Stalder doesn't want to reveal anything anymore.
In general, the braids have become easier over the years.
The use of spelling has historical reasons: Dinkel was the most important grain in Emmental as elsewhere in Switzerland before it was supplanted by wheat. Farmers used and used what the farm has to offer. The milk has Andrea Eymann from their own cows, the eggs from their chickens. The butter comes indirectly via the dairy, which comes with the milk, also from the farm, similar to the flour – in addition to wheat and field peas you grow prairie and wheat.
Lone farmers women in Emmental add pork to butter, butter and butter. This makes the dough particularly crumbly. In general, however, the braids have become easier over the years. The historical recipe for a Bernese Züpfe cookbook published in 1977 "Ächti Schwizer Chuchi" by Marianne Kaltenbach produces 160 to 200 grams of butter per day. Kg flour – more than Andrea Eymann. And much more than Zopffrezepte in modern cookbooks like the one from the Betty Bossi series.
Trigger August 1st
In the 15th century, Züpfe was first mentioned in writing. Until it became the common braid throughout Switzerland, it took until the early 20th century. Like bread for special occasions. First at New Year, then later on Sunday.
For Andrea Eymann, August 1 was the trigger for baking commercial breeding. Ten years ago, she began delivering Aug. 1 brunch on her own farm. She has since abandoned brunch, her partner and the four children, ages 8 to 13. On the other hand, she also delivers on-demand breeding for parties, birthdays and other anniversaries. The fine bread can be combined with many things – with cheese and ham ("Hamme") as well as with jam and honey.
In itself, Andrea Eymann's pigtails taste good anyway. A little salty, a little buttery. The dough is dense – shredded if you divide a slice by hand. And she's still healthy the third day.
Burezopf by Andrea Eymann
(makes a big stick)
- 1 kg Züpfenmehl from wheat and spelled (old variety)
- 25 g salt
- 20 g yeast, crumbled
- 150 g butter break
- 5-6 dl milk
- baking paper to the plate
1. Mix scrubs and salt, add yeast, butter and milk, knead to a soft, smooth dough. Cover it overnight in the cool bakery or in a cool place.
2. Braid the dough as you like, into a 4 or 6 piece braid, place it on the prepared sheet, let it rise briefly. Then bake in the lower half of the preheated oven at 220 degrees for 45-55 minutes. Depending on the oven, adjust the temperature.
3. Take out the braid and let it cool on a grid.
Preparation: approx. 30 minutes
Let it raise: overnight
Baking: approx. 45 minutes
We first published this recipe on July 28, 2016 in the "Swiss Family".
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Posted: 17.08.2019, 12:07 clock